How to safely remove skin tags?

donaldkeir · Joined: 21 Aug 2010 Posts: 1

I have a skin tag growing just inside my nostril, and want to know if there is a home remedy to remove it?
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marri · Joined: 28 Aug 2009 Posts: 267 Location: Western Australia

Donald, get a book, do a course, or at least to a bit of fundamental research on the net first. The answers you seek are not necessarily simple, like "if there's anything I should do differently from acrylics".... yes there is but there is a fair bit too it and it depends what you are trying to do.... there is not a simple answer. Before asking too many questions you need some basic knowledge about oil paints, what they are made of, what a glaze is, etc.

Now, who is going to post a beautifully concise but accurate answer that proves me wrong?

Tango · Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 1360 Location: Melbourne

AvG · Joined: 17 Sep 2005 Posts: 1912

I'm not going to try to prove you wrong either.

And I agree some basic knowledge before starting is a must. So let's get the ball rolling.....
Acrylic paint (otherwise known as synthetic polymer paint) is compatible with water and therefore it can be thinned and cleaned with water. Generally though thinning of acrylic paitn is achieved through the use of acrylic mediums (there are many kinds) because too much water tends to reduce the pigment intensity.

Oil paint on the other hand is not compatible with water (let's not talk about water soluble oil paints just for now as they are in a class all their own and it's gets too tricky).
Oil paint can be cleaned up with solvent (turps), or washed with soap and water after cleaning the bulk off with a special brush cleaner (e.g. Dissolv) or baby oil or something else that 'cuts' the oil paint. Then soap and water will do the trick. But if you stick your oil paint covered brushes into a jar of water like you do with your acrylic ones....pfft forget it!
Oil paint can be thinned using solvent or mediums (of which there are many). Again you wouldn't use too much solvent as it breaks down the pigments, less intensity and has a nasty habit of making the paint a bit chalky and prone to flaking off.

That is about 0.0002% of the information available.

BTW acrylic brushes and oil brushes are fairly interchangeable when clean (don't lynch me purists, I've been doing it for years)

Tango · Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 1360 Location: Melbourne

Go to your local library and get out all the books on Oil Painting, especially ''The Oil Painting Book '' by Bill Greevy it's got a lot of good info on oil painting material http://www.reuels.com/reuels/The_Oil_Painting_Book_by_Bill_Creevy.html
I always suggest artists changing from oils to acrylics to try one of the quick dry oils like WN Griffin.......Also with oils you will be using toxic solvents and mediums so a well ventilated studio is required........ I use Archival Odourless Solvent and Archival Odourless Lean Medium which apart from eliminating odours are less toxic than others

belle2 · Joined: 21 Jan 2010 Posts: 189 Location: Newcastle

Water soluble oil paints eg. Winsor and Newton Artisan? I've just bought a set but haven't had a chance to use them yet.

olivia_688 · Joined: 28 Nov 2010 Posts: 5

both materials have their pros and cons so its good to get to know them both first and see which you can work better with.

The Pook · Joined: 01 Feb 2007 Posts: 2904 Location: Tasmania

Yes i'd suggest a basic oil painting book or DVD.

If you want to learn real oils, don't go for the water based ones. Use gum turps or linseed oil or ask your art supply dealer about other diluents.

For cleanup, you don't have to use turps or other solvents. The best cleaner I have found is Chroma Incredible brush cleaner. Wash them with that in water. Using turps just makes you sick and is not necessary.

I use spike lavender oil, home made mediums and Langridge mediums for mixing.